Monday, 30 March 2009

Vivienne Westwood 1993 A/W Collection : Anglimania

Westwood's use of tartan is unparalleled. Her fascination with Scottish traditions - as source of inspiration and subject of parody - reoccurred frequently in her collections and triumphed in Anglomania (A/W 1993). Using a mix of different tartans, her ensembles exploited the rich depth, colour and diversity of the traditional checked pattern. The tartans were made to order by Locharron of Scotland, who also created a special desig for Westwood called the 'McAndreas', after her second husband, Andreas Kronthaler.


About the collections

The title Anglomania referred to the French passion for the all things English -- literature, language, clothing and even food -- that prevailed during the 1780s, when pre-revolutionary, foppish styles were replaced by the plainer English aristocratic look. Westwood's fascination with English and Scottish traditions -- as source of inspiration and subject of parody -- was reiterated in Anglomania with mini-kilt tartan ensembles, special tartan for Westwood called the ' McAndreas' , after her husband.

Her first Anglomania fashion collection was released in Autumn-Winter 1993-1994 and was an embodiment of the desingner's fondness and talent for parodying “the British in the context of a classical perspective”.

Described as “the bewitching empire of the senses for a modern nomad, mixing British eccentricity and Asian intensity to express extrovert femininity”, Anglomania has a very appealing list of notes: green tea, cardamom, coriander, rose, violet, nutmeg, leather, vanilla and amber.

This suit was designed by Vivienne Westwood for her "Anglomania" collection of Autumn/Winter 1993. The jacket and trousers are made from the McAndreas tartan, which was invented by Westwood herself and is named after her husband, Andreas Kronthaler.

The outfit sums up Westwood's interests in history, art, the 18th century, British traditional materials and manufacturing and also refers back to her own earlier collections of the late 1970s.

Man's suit; jacket, bondage trousers and 'baker boy' cap, wool, the pink Gordon tartan, Vivienne Westwood, 'Anglomania' Collection, Autumn-Winter 1993.

This suit from the 'Anglomania' Collection is made from a traditional wool tartan, a textile that fascinates Westwood. She has even designed her own modern tartans for use in her clothes. This example, with its bondage-style trousers, reminds us of Westwood's punk origins.
The suit was worn by Holly Johnson as a solo artist, following the break up of the band 'Frankie Goes to Hollywood' in 1987.

Other Details :

Shoes, pair, womens, 'Super elevated gillies', leather/ cork/ silk, Autumn/ Winter collection, designed by Vivienne Westwood, London, 1993-1994

Naomi Campbell toppled during a Vivienne runway show in these shoes from her 93Anglomania” collection

Tuesday, 24 March 2009

Vivienne Westwood 1991 S/S Collection : Cut and Slash

Color Analysis

Color Scheme :
- Analogous Color Scheme
- Triad Color Scheme
- Achromatic Color Scheme
Vivienne Westwood loves using Achromatic Color Scheme , we can always find Blacks , Whites and grays in her collections. Westwood also used this scheme to design outfits so as to create the feeling of classic and elegant.

The below outfits are using Analogous Color Scheme. The left one is using violet and pink and the two rigth outfits are using red and orange to create the Analogous Color effect, thus as a whole I find the these outfits can create the feeling of harmony.

The below outfits are using Traid Color Scheme , which are Red , Yellow and Blue , both outfits are using high value. These two outfits really impressed me a lots, as I know that Traid Color Scheme is not easy to use, but Westwood use this scheme in these two outfits in a very proper way and it can make the outfit become more shape and impressive.


About the coleections

This collection employed the 17th century technique of slashing and gives depth to the fabric - satin , silk , cotton and denim all received the smae confindent treatment. The effect was achieved in a variety of ways: the large slashes were hand-cut while the smaller , regular cuts were made using a broderie abfkause programme in which embroidered sections were cut, but the embroidery itself omitted. The technique was further emulated in chunky hand - knits.

This collections utilized denim , partly because Westwood realized that it was the most commercial application of the technique.

The deep , hand-cut gashes and frayinf edges animated the jackets and jeans, emulating the passionate, masculine vitality the Wetswoos admired so much in Tudor portraits.

In this collections , Westwood explored clothing that was androgynous, as she had done intermittently since Punk. Incorporating references to 18th centtury court dress and the 19th century dandy, she created a more clinging and less angular profile for the torso, eschewing certain late 20th century masculine tailoring conventions.
Westwood said ' There are certain polarities operating in whatever I do, very strong ones - vetween masculine and feminiine, how much fermininity goes into men's clothes , how much masculinity can go into women's clothes . '

Monday, 23 March 2009

Vivienne Westwood 1990 A/W Collection : Portrait

Color Analysis

Color Scheme :
- Analogous Color Scheme
- Compementary Color Scheme
- Achromatic Color Scheme

The below outfits are using Achromatic Color Scheme , which is blacks and add the gold color as the partten . I think no matter the outfits design and the color are match with the collection's theme : historicism. It create the a feeling of classic.

The below outfits are using one colour, which is red-orange , blue and orange respectively.
It is interesting is that I find when these color are combined that can create the complementary color effect.

The below outfits are using Analogous Color Scheme. The left one is using blue and green color ; the middle is using dark green and light yellow ; the right one is using light brown which matched with a light yellow glove to create the Analogous Color effect. I found that alought Westwood used different value of different color , when the color she used are lying adjecent to each other on the color wheel , it can create the feeling of harmaony, just like the below outfits.

The below outfit is using Compementary Color Scheme, which is using Red-orange and blue. Alought just little blue is added in this outfit, it create a contrast effect and make the outfit became more shape and attractive.


About the collection

The dominant theme of the 1990s was historicism.

Vivienne Westwood said : "Fashion as we know it is the result of the exchange of ideas between France and England,"

The most characteristic aspect of Westwood's work in the 1990s is its historicism. Her revelation is that fashion is profoundly enriched by renewal and reinvention, and she believes this to be a radical departure. She once said: 'I am a great believer in copying; there has never been an age in which people have so little respect for the past'.

In Portrait (Autumn/Winter 1990–91) Westwood created one of her richest and most elaborate collections at a time when minimalism was becoming prevalent. Her intention was to suggest that her models had just stepped out of a painting. She used rococo designs derived from 18th-century furniture printed in gold ink on to stretch black velvet and photographic prints of Boucher's paintings on shawls and corsets.

Boucher's paintings on shawls and corsets.

Later, her love of painting was expressed in creations that emulated the very quality of the artist's technique, for example in her Gainsborough blouse, its edges gently frayed to suggest fine brushwork, and in sumptuous ball gowns styled in the spirit of Winterhalter.

She has found inspiration in the furniture of Andre Charles Boulle in her Portrait collection A/W 1990, creating elegant dresses in black velvet over-printed in gold. Westwood created a silk evening dress based on the eighteenth century artist François Boucher's portraits of Louis XV's mistress, Madame de Pompadour, for her Anglophilia collection, recreating the crumpled silk taffeta. Despite her exactitude, Westwood's creations are never historical facsimiles; 'I take something from the past that has a sort of vitality that has never been exploited - like the crinoline - and get very intense. In the end you do something original because you overlay your own ideas.'

This dress was inspried by The Mirror with marquetry by Andre-Charles Boulle. French, 1713 Wallace Collection.

This long , red barathea open jacket with black velvet collar and pockets was copied from the 18th century portrait, The boy with a bat. This jacket is teamed with a high - waisted pencil skirt and a silk ' Boucher' scarf.

Saturday, 21 March 2009

Biography of Vivienne Westwood

1941 Vivienne Isabel Swire born on April 8th in Glossop, Derbyshire.

1957 Moves with her family to London, aged 17, and attended Harrow Art School for one term.

1962 Marries Derek Westwood. Aged 21, becomes a primary-school teacher in Willesden, North London.

1963 Her first son, Benjamin Arthur Westwood, is born.

1965 Marriage to Westwood ends. She meets 18 year old Malcolm Edwards (aka McLaren).

1967 With McLaren, a second son is born, Joseph Ferdinand Corré

1971 McLaren and Westwood's first shop opens at 430 King's Road, London, called 'Let It Rock'.

1972 The shop is redesigned and renamed by McLaren 'Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die'.

1974 Shop name is changed to 'SEX'.

1975 Westwood and McLaren are fined for 'exposing to public view an indecent exhibition'.

1976 430 King's Road is renamed 'Seditionaries - Clothes for Heroes'.

1979 'World's End' opens at 430 King's Road.

1981 March: McLaren and Westwood's first catwalk show, the Pirate collection (A/W 1981-2), shown at Olympia followed by Savage (S/S 1982).

1982 Buffalo (A/W 1982-3) and Punkature (S/S 1983) shown in Paris.Westwood and McLaren open a second London shop called 'Nostalgia of Mud'.

1984 'Nostalgia of Mud' closes. Westwood moves to Italy.Invitation to show the Hypnos collection (S/S 1984) in Tokyo at Hanae Mori's 'Best of Five' global fashion awards, with Calvin Klein, Claude Montana and Gianfranco Ferre.Deal with Giorgio Armani announced.

1987 Westwood designs the Statue of Liberty corset as part of Harris Tweed (A/W 1987-8). It is the first corset to be introduced into outerwear.

1989 November: Westwood's name appears in a list of the world's top six designers in John Fairchild's book Chic Savages (1989), along with Armani, Lagerfield, Saint Laurent, Lacroix and Ungaro.

1989-1991 Appointed Professor of Fashion at Vienna Academy of Applied Arts.1990 First complete menswear collection, Cut and Slash (S/S 1991) shown in conjuntion with Pitti Uomo in Florence.December: The Vivienne Westwood shop opens at 6 Davies Street, in London's Mayfair. It sells the Gold Label collection.Westwood is the first fashion designer to be profiled on London Weekend Television's arts programme, 'The South Bank Show'.

1990 and 1991 Awarded Fashion Designer of the Year by the British Fashion Council.

1991 Chosen to show in the Tokyo Fashion Summit, alongside Christian Lacroix, Isaac Mizrahi and Franco Moschino.

1992 Wedding Gowns introduced to the collections.Westwood is made Honorary Senior Fellow of the Royal College of Art.Shop opens 43 Conduit Street, London.Westwood creates a watch design called 'Putti' for Swatch.Exhibits at Musée d'Art, Bordeaux, France.Awarded an O.B.E by her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. Westwood marries Andreas Kronthaler whom she met whilst teaching in Vienna.

1993 Appointed Professor of Fashion at the Berliner Hochschule der Künste. Designs 'Orb', a second watch for Swatch.Westwood commissions her own tartan 'Mac Andreas' for the Anglomania Collection, as a tribute to her husband. It appears in the records of the official Lochcarron Museum.

1994 Invitation by Littlewoods catalogue to design a mail-order range.May: Westwood wins the first Institute of Contemporary Art Award for outstanding Contribution to Contemporary Culture.Designs Ancien Régime costumes in carpet to celebrate the founding in 1783 of the carpet company Brintons. 1996 Westwood's menswear label 'Man', is launched in January in Milan. Spring: The three-part Channel 4 series, Painted Ladies, is broadcast.1998 Debut fragrance, Boudoir, is launched. Vivienne Westwood Ltd awarded the Queen's Award for Export in recognition of the company's growing export market.

1999 The Red Label is launched in the United States in February, coinciding with the opening of Westwood's first shop in New York.Accessories lines are introduced including the Eyewear collection and the 'Coquetteries' Body and bath line.

2000 The Museum of London holds the exhibition 'Vivienne Westwood: the collection of Romilly McAlpine from 7 April to 25 June 2000.A second fragrance, Libertine, is launched in Europe.

2001 Vivienne Westwood is the first designer to be honoured at the Moët & Chandon Fashion Tribute held at the V&A.2002 February: Shop opens in Hong Kong, followed by accessories shop in August.

2003 June: Awarded the UK fashion Export Award for Design.September: Shop opens in Milan.October: Shop opens in Liverpool.